Isole Borromee Isole Borromee
NATURE

THE APARTMENT OF GROTTOS

In Palazzo Borromeo on Isola Bella there is modern flight of stairs going down to the lower floor, at the height of the lake, which leads to a fascinating sequence of six “whimsical” rooms imitating natural grottos, conceived and imagined by Vitaliano VI Borromeo.

The Idea

The ambitious idea of the «grotto-like» apartment was conceived by Count Vitaliano VI Borromeo starting from 1662 when, in a letter to his brother Giberto III, he floated the idea of «rooms for the summer looking like grottos, as I have seen designed in the Duke of Mantua’s Palazzo della Favorita».

Thanks to its position almost at the waterfront, with windows looking out directly over the lake, it invited those present to enjoy the panorama and the cool breezes.

THE APARTMENT OF GROTTOS
The grottos of Palazzo Tè in Mantua

This project probably also referenced two other examples in Lombardy: the grottos of the Visconti Borromeo in Lainate and those of Bartolomeo Arese in Cesano Maderno.

The grottos of Palazzo Visconti Borromeo in Lainate

The Project

It was only in 1689 that the project was entrusted to Filippo Cagnola, a Florentine architect, whom the Borromeos themselves had sent to Rome to study with Carlo Fontana.

THE APARTMENT OF GROTTOS
THE APARTMENT OF GROTTOS

Designs by Filippo Cagnola

The six rooms on the ground floor, which are accessible directly from the garden, are entirely covered in pebbles, tuff, lava, coal residues, «shiny stones» (marbles), fragments of mica and small pieces of marble from Candoglia. All this is embellished with stucco ornaments on the theme of water: shells, nymphs, mermaids, dolphins, fishes and turtles. The floors are covered in red, white and black river pebbles from the lake, with which the Borromeos’ heraldic devices are designed.

When Vitaliano died, work ground to a halt and only resumed in 1758 under the supervision of architect Giulio Gallori.

THE APARTMENT OF GROTTOS

THE APARTMENT OF GROTTOS

THE APARTMENT OF GROTTOS

The First Grotto

The «room of the four pillars» was the first and probably only one to be completed as regards the vault and the walls in accordance with Cagnola’s designs, and it immediately aroused great admiration. On 16th October 1689, Carlo IV Borromeo Arese, Vitaliano’s nephew, wrote:

“Your Lordship will be designed with the most beautiful thing on the island”.

THE APARTMENT OF GROTTOS

The Second Grotto

The second grotto primarily makes reference to the theme of shells; a work of Neoclassical sculpture is also present: the marble bust of a soldier created by Giovan Battista Monti. The display case contains a group of shells and algae fossils arranged to represent a mysterious still life.

THE APARTMENT OF GROTTOS

The Third Grotto

The third grotto, on the other hand, has marble fragments with red and white colour tones.

At the centre, the delicate, seductive statue of the Venus asleep by Giovan Battista Monti stands out. The soft sculpture, natural size, created a certain embarrassment for Gilberto V Borromeo, since one visitor had protested about the excessive realism of the statue, so that the prince was on the verge of deciding to sell the “scandalous” statue.

Fortunately, the beautiful sculpture remained where it was and can quite justifiably be considered an absolute masterpiece by Giovan Battista Monti, one of the main protagonists of Neoclassicism.

THE APARTMENT OF GROTTOS
THE APARTMENT OF GROTTOS

The Fourth Grotto

The fourth grotto is decorated with motifs of shells, bees and dolphins, and has a sculpture of Flora, the divinity of spring and plenty. In this room we also find display cases containing compositions of algae and corals, while exhibited at the centre is a model of the Bucentaur, the state barge of the Doge of Venice, created at the beginning of the 19th century as a reminder of the original vessel, which was unfortunately burnt during the Napoleonic occupation of Venice.

The Fifth Grotto

The fifth grotto is the largest in the summer apartment. It is supported by four pillars and, like the other rooms, is decorated with stone incrustations, black marble slabs, stuccos in the form of shells, turtles, sea divinities and amusing mascarons.

It was completed in 1690 and in 1772 the waterworks were installed; these were designed by Carlo Croce, an architect and hydraulic engineer, «to employ the new fountains in the mosaic», intended to amaze the guests on the island, which sadly are no longer in operation today.

THE APARTMENT OF GROTTOS

The Sixth Grotto

The sixth and final grotto, decorated with a fountain from 1772, hosts a spectacular series of saddles, caparisons and harnesses for horses, decorated with the coats of arms of the Borromeo, Barberini and Odescalchi families, which were used by the Borromeo family on the occasion of solemn cavalcades.

THE APARTMENT OF GROTTOS
THE APARTMENT OF GROTTOS

From this last grotto, via an access passageway embellished by an Indian statue from the 11th century representing the goddess of water, you reach the helical staircase created in the 17th century to connect the various floors of the building alongside the hall.

Left untreated, with the granite steps fixed directly to the wall as though they were large shelves, it is a small masterpiece of engineering.

THE APARTMENT OF GROTTOS
THE APARTMENT OF GROTTOS

The charm of these locations, which supposedly prompted Abbot Jerome Richard to exclaim in 1766:

those islands seem enchanted by Alcina or Calypso, by those Fairies whose seductions were so powerful

had also attracted Giberto III, who gave his brother Vitaliano shells, which he had no hesitation in defining

much more beautiful and precious than those of the sea

THE APARTMENT OF GROTTOS

The bizarre variety of the materials, the whimsical nature of the decorations, the Baroque interplay between nature and artifice produce a sense of wonder that is renewed on every visit, and not only thanks to the pleasant relief offered by the coolness during the summer.

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🖼 #Berthier130
Nella piccola Adorazione dei Magi che fu di Giulia Arese, moglie di Renato II Borromeo, la cura che Giulio Cesare Procaccini mette nella regia e nella resa delle figure, concepite come microsculture preziose, ci ricorda che l’artista attorno al 1605, sebbene trentenne, è da poco approdato all’arte della pittura.
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Nato a Bologna, figlio di Ercole Procaccini il Vecchio e fratello di Camillo e Carlo Antonio, tutti rinomati pittori, Giulio Cesare fu l’unico della famiglia a iniziare la carriera artistica come scultore.
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Questa tavola della Galleria Berthier è uno dei migliori esempi delle sue sperimentazioni giovanili, dove la pittura veloce, impetuosa e improvvisa rilegge i maestri di area emiliana, primo fra tutti il Parmigianino.
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Giulio Cesare Procaccini
Adorazione dei Magi
1605 circa
Galleria Berthier, Palazzo Borromeo
Isola Bella
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🖼 #Berthier130
In the little Adoration of the Magi by Giulia Arese, wife of Renato II Borromeo, the care that Giulio Cesare Procaccini puts into directing and rendering figures, conceived as precious microsculptures, reminds us that the artist, in around 1605, although thirty years old, had recently arrived in the art of painting.
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Born in Bologna, son of Ercole Procaccini the Elder and brother of Camillo and Carlo Antonio, all renowned painters, Giulio Cesare was the only one in the family to begin his artistic career as a sculptor.
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This panel from Galleria Berthier is one of the best examples of his early experiments, where fast, impetuous and sudden painting reinterprets the masters of the Emilian area, starting with Parmigianino.
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Giulio Cesare Procaccini
Adoration of the Magi
Around 1605
Galleria Berthier, Palazzo Borromeo
Isola Bella

#terreborromeo #lakemaggiore #lagomaggiore #isolabella #palazzoborromeo #artlovers #berthier130 #galleriaberthier #paintings
Dalla magica cornice del Lago Maggiore alla fiabesca atmosfera di uno storico castello, le Isole Borromee e la Rocca di Angera tra le “Meraviglie” di @albertoangelarai1
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Un viaggio alla scoperta di tradizioni secolari, bellezze artistiche e paesaggi mozzafiato che rendono unico il nostro bel Paese.
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Appuntamento martedì 4 gennaio 2022 alle 21:25 su @rai1official per tornare a viaggiare tra le #Meraviglie d'Italia.
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From the magical setting of Lake Maggiore to the fairytale atmosphere of the historic castle, Isole Borromee and Rocca di Angera among Alberto Angela's “Wonders”.
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A journey to discover centuries-old traditions, artistic beauties and breathtaking landscapes.
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Save the date! January 4th at 9.25pm on RaiUno to return to travel among the #Meraviglie of Italy.

#terreborromeo #lakemaggiore #lagomaggiore #isolabella #isolamadre #roccadiangera #MeraviglieLaPenisolaDeiTesori #AlbertoAngela #Italy #Travel
Pronunciate il nome Viburnum. Quale sensazione vi lascia?
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Se vi sembra risuonare fortemente tra le labbra, come qualcosa dal carattere molto forte, è perché avete intuito la caratteristica dei suoi rami: la tenacia.
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Gli antichi arcieri avevano scelto proprio il legno di Viburnum lantana per realizzare frecce leggere e dalla dirittura molto precisa. I rami del Viburnum opulus, invece, venivano usati come scudisci per cavalli.
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Noi abbiamo scelto il Viburno per dare un tocco di magia ai viali dell’Isola Bella in inverno. Quando sbocciano sembrano batuffoli di neve profumatissima.
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Say the name Viburnum. What feeling does it evoke?
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If it seems to resonate powerfully between your lips, like something with a very strong character, it is because you have embodied the essential characteristic of its branches: tenacity.
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Ancient archers chose the wood of Viburnum lantana to make light arrows with a very precise straightness. The branches of the Viburnum opulus, on the other hand, were used as shields for horses.
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We have chosen the Viburnum to give a touch of magic to the paths of Isola Bella during the winter. When they bloom, they are like balls of fragrant snow.

#terreborromeo #lakemaggiore #lagomaggiore #isolabella #viburno #viburnum